Not all cotton is the same

What Makes Cotton Good?

Start with the fibre.

One of the clearest indicators of cotton quality is fibre length.

Longer fibres can be spun into smoother, stronger and more consistent yarns, with fewer loose ends. This can result in softer fabrics with better resistance to pilling and wear.

At the premium end are extra-long staple (ELS) varieties such as Pima, Supima® and some Giza varieties of Egyptian cotton.

Pima is an extra-long staple cotton associated with Peru and other growing regions.

Egyptian cotton is grown in Egypt, but the name alone doesn't guarantee extra-long fibres. Specific Giza varieties are prized for their long, fine fibres.

Supima® is a registered brand for American-grown Pima cotton, with a traceable supply chain.

The important question isn't simply whether a cotton has a prestigious name. It's what that name actually guarantees.

A high-quality cotton fibre isn't automatically a sustainable one.

Cotton's environmental impact depends heavily on how it is grown: water use, pesticides, soil management and farming practices all matter.

Producing cotton can require significant amounts of water, although the exact figure varies substantially depending on where and how it is grown. This is why looking at the production method matters more than relying on a single global water-use figure.

GOTS Organic is one of the most comprehensive certifications to look for. It covers organic fibre production as well as environmental and social criteria throughout textile processing.

Cotton made in Africa® (CmiA) focuses on responsible cotton production in Sub-Saharan Africa, including rain-fed cultivation, responsible pesticide use and social criteria.

What about cotton from Asia? China, India and Pakistan are major cotton producers, accounting for a large share of global production. But their cotton is not one uniform quality.

There is no useful rule that says Asian cotton is bad. However, when cotton is produced at such a large industrial scale, quality, environmental and labour practices can vary considerably between regions and supply chains. In any case where the garment was made doesn't necessarily tell you where the cotton came from or what quality it is.

Traceability matters so, what can you actually look for?

If you're looking for QUALITY Look for:

Pima Extra-long staple cotton associated with premium softness and durability.

Supima® American-grown Pima cotton with a controlled, traceable supply chain.

Specific Giza varieties Some Giza varieties of Egyptian cotton are valued for their long, fine fibres.

Clear fibre information The more specifically a brand identifies the cotton it uses, the more useful the claim becomes.

If you're looking for SUSTAINABILITY Look for:

GOTS Organic fibre + environmental and social requirements across processing.

Cotton made in Africa® (CmiA) Responsible cotton production with requirements around farming practices, water and pesticide use, and social criteria.

Better Cotton A programme focused on improving environmental, farming and social practices in cotton production.

If you're looking for TRACEABILITY look for:

Where was the cotton grown?

Where was it spun and processed?

Where was the garment made?

These are three different pieces of information.

And if it's RECYCLED COTTON Look for:

How much is recycled?

How was it recycled?

Mechanical recycling shortens cotton fibres, which can affect strength and durability. Chemical recycling can regenerate the cellulose into a new fibre, but the resulting material is technically a regenerated cellulose fibre rather than cotton.

Can't find any of this? That's information too.

These are the details that fascinate us: the fibre, its origin, how it was grown, how it was processed and all the information hidden behind a simple “100% cotton” label.

Find what we've discovered on FFF and if you don't see it, we didn't see it either.